Most dog boarding facilities and in-home boarding options lack sufficient structure for dogs, often leading to chaotic and stress-inducing environments. This can be challenging for dogs, especially for anxious dogs or those who take time to warm up to strangers (whether dog or human).

In structured boarding environments, dogs benefit from a regular daily routine and 1:1 attention. With me, this consists of scheduled activities, training sessions, and supervised playtime. Unlike traditional boarding, where dogs might spend most of their time either 1) isolated in kennels with limited interaction, or 2) free-roaming unsupervised, many times with lots of other boarding dogs, structured boarding typically focuses on maintaining or improving your dog’s behavior and well-being in a calm, organized setting. 

Structured boarding is particularly beneficial for dogs with ongoing training needs or any anxiety or behavioral issues, but is my preferred style of boarding for any dog, given the emphasis on consistency and attention.

I board in my own home, which means my personal dog and boarding dogs take turns spending time with me in areas of the house, yard, and in their secure, sectioned off area.

I get up early to let dogs outside to relieve themselves and go on a morning walk, then offer yard time and break time throughout the morning. Dogs take turns in my office with me, in the fenced yard, and in their crate or pen area for a brief rest. Everyone gets a mid-day walk, followed by a quiet break. In the afternoon, we'll do some active play and engagement in the yard (weather permitting) and any training sessions if applicable. In the evening we go on a second walk, followed by rotations of relaxing with me in the living room and yard time, before dogs settle for bed in their crate for the night. Boarding dogs are always supervised, and crated at night for safety.

Your dog will not engage directly with my personal dog outside of pre-discussed interactions, and they will have their own cozy and secure space inside my home where they will spend their break time (for a *maximum* daytime period of three hours) and sleeping time.

Schedules may vary depending on the dog's need and I do my best to maintain close to any regular feeding and bathroom schedules you might have at home. 

Yes! By default, I will hold your dog accountable to any training and rules they have at home. I can also incorporate additional daily training if there is something you'd like your dog to improve in, or if you just want even more mental stimulation during the day. I also offer a "Head Start" board-and-train program that focuses on foundational skills and setting the stage for future progress or training. 

I specialize in working with dogs that may not thrive in traditional boarding environments. If your dog has anxiety, reactivity, or other specific needs, I'll work with you to create a plan that ensures their comfort and safety. However, dogs with severe aggression issues may not be a good fit for our boarding program.

I typically have the capacity to board one dog at a time. That said, up to two dogs from one household is negotiable, depending on the situation including (but not limited to) client history, training level, size, and other factors. Please email me to schedule a call or consultation to discuss!

I've felt guilty for wanting constant updates when I leave my dog, so I don't want that for you! 

I create a shared album for photos and videos I capture throughout the day that you can check up on whenever you're missing your pup. If you ever have specific questions about how your dog is doing I am also happy to answer them and get back to you as quickly as I'm able!

My methods focus on clarity and consistency in communication and training. I use rewards to teach desired behaviors, and a variety of communication tools and approaches to provide feedback. My goal is to create a consistent "language" of communication that allows for better general understanding between you and your dog. This language is developed based on best fit for you and your dog—what is most effective for them, and what you are comfortable with—and may include any of: a strong "yes/no" marker system, food/treats, play, praise/affection, leashes, or fair and effective use of training collars. 

Alongside teaching behaviors, I also focus on encouraging and reinforcing a calm mindset and neutrality to help your dog manage their instincts and responses, particularly in situations that trigger stress or over-excitement. 

By choosing and leveraging tools based on the needs of the dog/human combo in front of me, I reinforce positive behavior patterns while balancing your dog’s ability to consistently perform the behaviors we ask of them and keeping their motivation intact. 

Yes! Positive reinforcement is the foundation of my training and rewarding the behaviors we want to see more of is essential to effective learning. In training, I prioritize setting dogs up to succeed, and using reward to give them positive feedback. 

That said, good training is more nuanced than rewarding good behavior—it’s also about providing clear information on what’s appropriate and what's not. Dogs, like all learning beings, do best when they understand both what’s expected of them and what behaviors won’t get them what they want. I teach you how to set clear and consistent boundaries and enforce them in a way that is respectful and fair. In addition to a focus on behavior, I take a holistic approach and look at your relationship, routine, and your dog's specific needs and motivations to shape training.

Unfortunately, training is often talked about in simplified extremes, as if we have to choose between rewarding everything or forcing compliance. I take a balanced, thoughtful approach that respects each dog as an individual. No two dogs learn the same way, and figuring out their unique language and motivators is one of my favorite parts of training. 

The behavior scientist in me has a lot to say about some of the biased use of terms like "positive reinforcement," "negative reinforcement," and "punishment." If you’re interested in learning more, check out my blog post here.

When I talk about a "calm mindset" and "mindset training" in my approach, I’m referring to the process of teaching your dog how to remain calm, composed, and neutral, even in situations that might normally trigger excitement, stress, or anxiety. A calm mindset allows your dog to think clearly and respond appropriately to commands and their environment, rather than reacting impulsively.

Mindset training involves exercises and routines that help your dog develop this calm state of mind, and ensuring your dog trusts you to set them up for success. It’s not just teaching specific behaviors, but by first focusing on making "calmness" the easy and preferred choice. Then, by reinforcing calm behavior, we help your dog learn to manage their instinctual reactions in situations where they may be inappropriate or stress-inducing. Over time, this approach shapes how your dog views and interacts with their surroundings, reducing feelings of nervousness and restlessness, and helping them adapt to situations in the world that are inherently more human-friendly than dog-friendly.

It depends!

Every dog has unique motivators. Some dogs will do anything for food, or a ball, or for a head scratch. Some don't care about any of these things. I find what motivates your dog to learn, and work with you to build and bank on that motivation where we can, while focusing on eliminating opportunities to "practice" the behavior we want to see less of. 

The hope is that we can make the behavior we want to see more of the "best" choice for the dog, in favor of the behaviors we don't like so much.

It's also important to acknowledge that some behaviors are instinctual, and can be more challenging to address. I don't necessarily believe in shutting all of these down, but teaching dogs when, where, and how some of these behaviors are appropriate and healthy. 

Consistency is key to success. I recommend setting aside time daily to practice skills introduced in lessons; exact amount will vary based on your goals and your dog’s needs, but even 15–20 minutes a day can make a big difference. We’ll work together to create a plan that fits your schedule, and to find ways to incorporate training moments into your already existing routine.

A consultation is our chance to discuss your needs and your dog’s behavior in detail in order to mutually determine if we are a good fit to work together. Prior to our meeting, I'll review your intake questionnaire. During the meeting, we'll get to know each other; I'll ask some questions about your dog's temperament and answer any questions you might have about me and my boarding or training programs. 

For training, we'll talk in depth about your training goals and any challenges. Based on our discussion, I'll build an initial training plan proposal and recommendation. You'll have a chance to review the proposal, decide if you would like to move forward with training, and we can schedule our first straining session!

I can begin to work with you and your puppy as early as nine weeks old, but training at home can start as soon as they come home! Puppy socialization and behavior shaping is critical in the first few months. A standard puppy training program will typically be 5 lessons and cover:

• Potty training

• Exercises for addressing rough puppy play and nipping 

• Socialization/dog neutrality

• Basic household and greeting manners

• Introduction to obedience: Sit, down, leave it, come, drop

• Early relationship building and bonding

For boarding, I am able to take young dogs that are at least 18 weeks old, have received their core vaccines, have begun potty training, and are comfortable in a crate overnight and for an age-appropriate amount of time. 

No, I welcome dogs of all breeds! While I take into account breed-specific tendencies and behaviors when putting together a training plan, my primary focus is always on the dog in front of me. Factors like breed, age, history, and environment all play a role, but what matters most is their unique temperament and personality.

The name Good Hound Dog comes from my own dog, Jameson—an oddball bloodhound/german shepherd mix who taught me that breed stereotypes can sometimes be limiting. Many people told me that a "stubborn," nose-driven hound could never be off-leash trained, or a reactive, anxious shepherd will never be calm around others, but they were wrong. He’s proof that with the right approach, any dog can be a good hound dog. 🐾