Most dog boarding facilities and in-home boarding options lack sufficient structure for dogs, often leading to chaotic and stress-inducing environments. This can be challenging for dogs, especially for anxious dogs or those who take time to warm up to strangers (whether dog or human).

In structured boarding environments, dogs benefit from a regular daily routine and 1:1 attention. With me, this consists of scheduled activities, training sessions, and supervised playtime. Unlike traditional boarding, where dogs might spend most of their time either 1) isolated in kennels with limited interaction, or 2) free-roaming unsupervised, many times with lots of other boarding dogs, structured boarding typically focuses on maintaining or improving your dog’s behavior and well-being in a calm, organized setting. 

Structured boarding is particularly beneficial for dogs with ongoing training needs or any anxiety or behavioral issues, but is my preferred style of boarding for any dog, given the emphasis on consistency and attention.

I board in my own home, which means my personal dog and boarding dogs take turns spending time with me in areas of the house, yard, and in their secure, sectioned off area.

I get up early to let dogs outside to relieve themselves and go on a morning walk, then offer yard time and break time throughout the morning. Dogs take turns in my office with me, in the fenced yard, and in their crate or pen area for a brief rest. Everyone gets a mid-day walk, followed by a quiet break. In the afternoon, we'll do some active play and engagement in the yard (weather permitting) and any training sessions if applicable. In the evening we go on a second walk, followed by rotations of relaxing with me in the living room and yard time, before dogs settle for bed in their crate for the night. Boarding dogs are always supervised, and crated at night for safety.

Your dog will not engage directly with my personal dog outside of pre-discussed interactions, and they will have their own cozy and secure space inside my home where they will spend their break time and sleeping time.

Schedules may vary depending on the dog's need. I do my best to maintain close to any regular feeding and bathroom schedules you might have at home. 

Yes! By default, I will work to hold your dog accountable to any structure and rules they have at home. I can also incorporate additional daily training if there is something you'd like your dog to improve in, or if you just want even more mental stimulation during the day. I also offer a "Jump Start" board-and-train program that provides more intensive training.

I specialize in working with dogs that may not thrive in traditional boarding environments. If your dog has anxiety, reactivity, or other specific needs, I'll work with you to create a plan that ensures their comfort and safety. However, dogs with severe aggression issues may not be a good fit for our boarding program.

I typically have the capacity to board one client dog at a time. That said, up to two dogs from one household is negotiable, depending on the situation including (but not limited to) client history, training level, size, and other factors. Please email me to schedule a call or consultation to discuss!

My goal is to create a consistent "language" of communication that allows for better general understanding between you and your dog. This language is developed based on what works with you and your dog—what is most effective for them, and what you are comfortable with. I use rewards to teach desired behaviors, and a variety of communication tools and approaches to provide feedback, based on best fit for you and your dog, which may include any of: a strong "yes/no" marker system, food/treats, play, praise/affection, leash handling, or fair and effective use of training collars. My methods focus on clarity and consistency in communication and training. 

Alongside teaching behaviors, I also focus on encouraging and reinforcing a calm mindset and neutrality to help your dog manage their instincts and responses, particularly in situations that trigger stress or over-excitement. 

By choosing and leveraging tools based on the needs of the dog/human combo in front of me, I reinforce positive behavior patterns while balancing your dog’s ability to consistently perform the behaviors we ask of them and keeping their motivation intact. 

Yes! Positive reinforcement is the foundation of my training, and rewarding the behaviors we want to see more of is essential and most effective for learning new behavior patterns. I prioritize setting dogs up to succeed, and using rewards to give them positive feedback. I also believe that good training is more nuanced than just rewarding good behavior—it’s also about providing clear and consistent directions on what’s appropriate and what's not, and dogs, like all learning beings, do best when they understand both what’s expected of them and what behaviors won’t get them what they want. I teach you how to set clear and consistent boundaries and enforce them in a way that is respectful and fair (think: "gentle parenting!") 

In addition to a focus on reinforcing behavior, I view training from a holistic lens and look at your relationship, routine, and your dog's specific motivations and enrichment needs to shape training.

Dog training is often talked about in simplified categories; I take a balanced, thoughtful approach that respects each dog as an individual. No two dogs learn the same way, and figuring out their unique language and motivators is one of my favorite parts of training. 

When I talk about a "calm mindset" and "mindset training" in my approach, I’m referring to the process of teaching your dog how to remain calm, composed, and neutral, even in situations that might normally trigger excitement, stress, or anxiety. A calm mindset allows your dog to think clearly and respond appropriately to commands and their environment, rather than reacting impulsively.

Mindset training involves exercises and routines that help your dog develop this calm state of mind, and ensuring your dog trusts you to set them up for success and advocate them. It’s not just teaching specific behaviors, but by first focusing on making "calmness" the easy and preferred choice. Then, by reinforcing calm behavior, we help your dog learn to manage their instinctual reactions in situations where they may be inappropriate or stress-inducing. Over time, this approach shapes how your dog views and interacts with their surroundings, reducing feelings of nervousness and restlessness, and helping them adapt to situations in the world that are inherently more human-friendly than dog-friendly.

It depends!

There's no universal fix because dogs, like people, are motivated by different things. Some will work for food or toys. Some crave affection. Some dogs are sensitive and resistant to certain pressure and feedback. Part of my job is figuring out what actually motivates your dog, and part of yours will be learning how to use that motivation in daily life.

The core of most behavior change is this: we make the behavior we want easier, clearer, and more rewarding than the one we don’t. At the same time, we limit your dog’s ability to practice the unwanted behavior, because every time they do, the more automatic it becomes.

That said, not all “problem behaviors” are problems to the dog. Some are natural outlets for instinctual needs—like barking, chasing, or digging. In those cases, we focus on teaching your dog when and where some of those behaviors are appropriate, while also making sure their needs are still being met. I don’t believe in shutting a dog down just to make them easier to live with. The goal is to build a dog who’s both fulfilled and able to function calmly in your life.

Consistency is key to success. I recommend setting aside time daily to practice skills introduced in lessons, but exact amount will vary based on your goals and your dog’s needs. Even 15–20 minutes a day can make a big difference. We’ll work together to create a plan that fits your schedule, and more importantly, to find ways to incorporate training moments into your already existing routine.

Yes, all new training and boarding clients begin with a consultation. This is a working conversation and how we'll determine if we're a good fit to work together and how my services might align with your goals and your dog’s needs.

Before we meet, I’ll review your intake form in detail. During the consultation, we’ll talk through your dog’s behavior and temperament, and your priorities. For training, we’ll also dive into what’s currently working, what isn’t, and what changes you’re hoping to see.

I’ll answer your questions, explain how my process works, and—if it seems like a good match—I’ll sketch out an initial plan for how we could approach training together. After our meeting, I’ll follow up with a written proposal summarizing our conversation and recommendations. You’ll have a chance to review that and decide whether to move forward.

The consultation helps ensure that your time and effort are going toward a plan that’s realistic, strategic, and tailored to your dog.

I can begin to work with you and your puppy as early as nine weeks old. A standard puppy training program will cover:

• Early relationship building and bonding

• Basic household and greeting manners

• Introduction to obedience: Sit, down, leave it/out, come

• Socialization/dog neutrality

• Potty and crate training

• Tips for setting up your puppy for success and avoiding future "problem" behaviors

Remember that training at home can start as soon as they arrive! Puppy socialization and behavior shaping is critical in the first few months. Feel free to reach out if you want tips for getting off to the right start.

For boarding, I am able to take dogs that are at least 6 months old, have received their core vaccines, are housebroken, and are comfortable in a crate overnight.

No, I welcome dogs of all breeds! While I take into account breed-specific tendencies and behaviors when putting together a training plan, my primary focus is always on the dog in front of me. Factors like breed, age, history, and environment all play a role, but what matters most is their unique temperament and personality.

The name Good Hound Dog comes from my own dog, Jameson, an oddball bloodhound/german shepherd mix who taught me that breed stereotypes can sometimes be limiting. So many people told me that a "stubborn," nose-driven hound could never be off-leash trained, or a reactive, anxious shepherd will never be calm around others, but he proved them wrong—he’s proof that with the right approach, any dog can be a good hound dog. 🐾